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Wednesday, October 6, 2010

basic sleeve pattern drawing/ how to measure armpit hole vertical length

The beauty of custom orders/ tailor made is to create a piece that fits your body perfectly/ which means comfy and nice in every details. ^^
It is a little more work at first but lots of my repeat customers are addicted to custom orders because custom order pieces fit as they wished.
Once I have your measurements in file, it is so easy for future orders/ all you have to do is to update changes if you have weight gain or loose in a short period.. 
Bare in mind, when you measure you want to give the loose/ fullest part of your body measurements so we make sure the pieces will be comfy on you.
Here is a peek of a normal attached sleeve pattern I did for a customer.  Sometimes I get questions on how to measure armpit hole vertical length  so I thought I show some photos here so you get an idea.
I work with armpit hole vertical length/ which means from shoulder end vertical downward armpit hole to where you feel comfortable/ you want to make sure it doesn't expose your bras if you mind.
a 9" armpit hole vertical length will give you a around 19.5" armpit hole girth room due to the curved line.

where to measure armpit hole vertical length. see the red line.
 what a typical sleeve pattern looks like on my cutting table.  Chinese character "тид" means "left".  You may find some chinese writing on the back of your clothing, that was from the progress of pattern drawing marked with tailor chalk. ^^ 
Photo shows a left sleeve inside out.
A different type of sleeve will look different and there are so many different changes you can do to make the sleeves different/ puffy/bubble// wavy/ ..etc.

 Each pattern is carefully drawn to fit your measurements. and the numbers are a magic combination.^^
Magic 5 and 8!
annyschoo's special marks on sleeve curves:
If you sew, you probably have some habits that you like to do. For drawing sleeves/ which I love to do^^/ to help  attaching sleeves with armpit holes on the sleeves better,  I like to mark on 5"/ 8" so I make sure the curves are evenly attached to armpit holes on the top/ dress.^^This means you mark 5 and 8 on the armpit holes on the top/dress too so they match when you sew.^^

Each handmade custom order piece is been put into lots of thoughts from both you and me and with your help, we create something unique and just for you.